A Fish Tale

The waters that surround Canada’s most easterly province are dotted with dories in the summer months. They’re jigging cod, which, despite the 1992 moratorium and limits on commercial and recreational fisheries, remains king in Newfoundland and Labrador. 

It’s so ubiquitous that “fish” almost always means “cod” there. Cod au gratin, a comforting cheesy fish casserole, is beloved across the province and works well with both fresh and frozen cod; it’s appreciated year-round, though especially at Christmas time. It’s a staple on restaurant menus and often found bubbling in Nan’s oven on Christmas Eve. 

Some think the first appearance of a written cod au gratin recipe was in the seminal cookbook Fat‑Back & Molasses: A Collection of Favourite Old Recipes from Newfoundland & Labrador by Rev. Ivan F. Jesperson, published in 1974. But many iterations with a variety of names appeared earlier in community cookbooks, church publications and newspapers across the province. The Nov. 10, 1933, column “Dietetics for the Home” in Corner Brook’s Western Star features a recipe for “Cod Fish au Gratin.” In St. John’s, a 1939 Observer’s Weekly column titled “Features of Interest to Women” included a recipe for “Cod and Cheese au Gratin” in a multi-page spread on the importance of eating fish. This was likely an unnecessary nudge, since the 1935 census notes Newfoundlanders were eating 40 pounds of cod a year, “ninth among the fish-eating countries of the world.” 

The Treasury of Newfoundland Dishes was first published in 1958 by the Maple Leaf Milling Company and the recipe for “Codfish au Gratin Casserole” appeared there as well as in subsequent editions. At the start of the fish section, editor Sally West wrote: “Folks with a love of the sea are always noted for their excellent fish dishes, and here’s where Newfoundland cooking comes into its own.” The cookbook contains 51 fishy recipes; 21 are cod-based. 

Regardless of its culinary historiography, cod au gratin has been a staple for home cooks and restaurants for almost 100 years. The now-closed St. John’s restaurant Bacalao garnered fame for its fancification of the dish in the late 2000s, but these days, most local grocery stores have a high-end version to take home and bake.

Prep time: 30 minutes | Total time:  1 hour 15 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6

Ingredients

▢ 1½ lb cod fillets, skinned, deboned and cut in bite-size chunks
▢ ¼ tsp salt, divided
▢ ¼ tsp pepper, divided
▢ 1 tbsp olive oil
▢ 1 onion, diced
▢ 5 tbsp salted butter, divided
▢ 3 tbsp flour
▢ 2 cups milk
▢ 1 tbsp lemon zest, divided
▢ 1 tsp dried oregano, divided
▢ 2 cups grated cheddar cheese, divided
▢ 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided
▢ 1 cup dried bread crumbs

Directions

• Preheat oven to 350°F.
• In 8cup casserole dish, season cod with a pinch each of salt and pepper. (Tip: If using frozen cod, thaw completely and pat dry with paper towel.)
• In saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat; cook onion until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 3 tbsp of the butter and let melt; add flour, whisking. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly until sauce is thickened and clings to back of spoon.
• Stir in ½ tbsp of the lemon zest and ½ tsp of the oregano. Stir in ½ cup each of the cheddar and Parmesan and season with a pinch each of salt and pepper until well combined.
• Pour cheese sauce over cod, stirring until well coated.
• To make crispy bread crumb topping, in microwaveable bowl, combine bread crumbs and remaining 2 tbsp of butter; microwave on medium high until butter is melted. Stir in ¾ cup of the remaining cheddar and ¼ cup of the remaining Parmesan.
• Cover cod mixture with remaining ¾ cup cheddar and ¼ cup Parmesan. Top with bread crumb mixture. Sprinkle with remaining ½ tbsp lemon zest,  ½ tsp oregano and pepper.
• Bake until bubbly and golden, about 40 minutes. Let rest for about 20 minutes before serving.